Entering Mauretania
Before we got to Nouadhibou we decided to take the next turning to the left and drive towards the National Park instead of following the main road along the shoreline. We camped overnight on a bank formed from thousands of broken shells next to the sea. During the night we were woken up by the iron ore train from Nouadhibou to Choum.
The next morning thinking we had plenty of time to enter the park we just followed the track over the grassland passing some camel herds and stopped for a lunch break in the shade of a large tree. A few hours later we realized that on these tracks with an average speed of 15km/h we probably won’t make it into the park before sunset. So we drove cross country 10 miles to the main road and entered the park at the official entrance at Chami.
The next morning thinking we had plenty of time to enter the park we just followed the track over the grassland passing some camel herds and stopped for a lunch break in the shade of a large tree. A few hours later we realized that on these tracks with an average speed of 15km/h we probably won’t make it into the park before sunset. So we drove cross country 10 miles to the main road and entered the park at the official entrance at Chami.
Parc National Banc d’Arguin
As there was no brochure of the park left, the ranger at the entrance pulled the one that was glued to the wall and gave it to us. We at first refused but later were happy to have the coordinates for our GPS as the park looks all the same and you can easily get lost.. For us the park was a bit disappointing, probably for bird watchers it might be interesting although you will need a guide to find the right spots. We didn’t see much wildlife except a rabbit, some camels and a few birds. We drove down to the unpleasant Iwik and were stopped by rangers who just wanted to check our tickets and were told not to camp in the park on our own and we were told to use the camps in which we had to stay in their tents and if we ignored that we would be fined a large sum.
We ignored that and camped in the middle of nowhere expecting to be caught any minute, it didn’t happen and soon the sun was rising on another beautiful cool cloudless desert, total peacefulness, except for the odd chirp of a bird.
We ignored that and camped in the middle of nowhere expecting to be caught any minute, it didn’t happen and soon the sun was rising on another beautiful cool cloudless desert, total peacefulness, except for the odd chirp of a bird.
Noackchott 8th-10th December 2010
After having spent 2 days in Noackchott we packed up and left the very comfortable hotel we had spent the last 24 hours in. On arrival we booked into the Auberge Menata which is a laid back hostel/ back packers style place with a nice garden and parking space and even the possibility to camp but that 1st night Wibke went down with a stomach bug and was off to the toilet every hour and in the morning still had a fever so we decided to upgrade to a decent hotel with air con, internet access and ensuite bathroom, the El Kather. The only thing we would not recommend about this hotel is the restaurant. The menu consists of mainly European food and Wibke opted for the pasta Napolitano and got an angry look from the waiter and the recommendation to go for the Bolognaise. Of course not wanting to eat minced meat with an upset stomach we had ordered the tomato sauce but got in the end the Bolognaise. Pretending Wibke was vegetarian they changed it within 20min but it left us with a strange feeling. The manager, a lady in her early 40s was very friendly the next morning and even offered us a free breakfast and her telephone number if we would get into trouble on the way to Mali.
It was Friday morning and a week since we had left home and after tanking Monty, buying water a few essentials in a well-stocked supermarket with Paté, Jam, Chocolat etc. we were soon on the road to Kiffa.
It was a hot and windy day, with a sand storm blowing, we opted for the air con button and cruised along once again straight desert roads interrupted only by police stops and slowing down for heavily laden lorries and livestock (cows, donkeys & camels) which would just walk across the road. All along the route we saw how many had been hit as they lay there rotting by the road side in some cases as many as ½ dozen in less than 100 metres. By 16.30 Wibke still sick asked to stop and so just after Sangarafa we came off the tar and drove a mile or so in land behind a hill and set up camp. Outside temp was 34C and windless, we were on 1 of Africa savanna grass lands, with yellow ankle high grass interspersed with the odd tree here and there. As soon as we had some water boiled a young shepherd approached us not able to speak a word French and the few phrases in our guide book weren’t sufficient to make conservation or even to ask if it was ok to camp at that place. After he had emptied half a bottle water we had given him by spitting most of the water on the ground squatting and chewing on a stick and the exchange of a few friendly looks he went off.
In the early night we woke up by the sound of people talking. Somebody at least two people were apparently on their way towards us. It was darkest night already so we could only see there torches. Night sight goggles would have come in handy. For a few moments we waited and then decided to leave the place as soon as possible. If they wanted to become friends with us, there had been plenty of time during daytime and with the stories of kidnapping in these areas in our minds we got the car ready to go within minutes and drove back to the main road and then found a suitable parking place a few kilometers further along.
After having spent 2 days in Noackchott we packed up and left the very comfortable hotel we had spent the last 24 hours in. On arrival we booked into the Auberge Menata which is a laid back hostel/ back packers style place with a nice garden and parking space and even the possibility to camp but that 1st night Wibke went down with a stomach bug and was off to the toilet every hour and in the morning still had a fever so we decided to upgrade to a decent hotel with air con, internet access and ensuite bathroom, the El Kather. The only thing we would not recommend about this hotel is the restaurant. The menu consists of mainly European food and Wibke opted for the pasta Napolitano and got an angry look from the waiter and the recommendation to go for the Bolognaise. Of course not wanting to eat minced meat with an upset stomach we had ordered the tomato sauce but got in the end the Bolognaise. Pretending Wibke was vegetarian they changed it within 20min but it left us with a strange feeling. The manager, a lady in her early 40s was very friendly the next morning and even offered us a free breakfast and her telephone number if we would get into trouble on the way to Mali.
It was Friday morning and a week since we had left home and after tanking Monty, buying water a few essentials in a well-stocked supermarket with Paté, Jam, Chocolat etc. we were soon on the road to Kiffa.
It was a hot and windy day, with a sand storm blowing, we opted for the air con button and cruised along once again straight desert roads interrupted only by police stops and slowing down for heavily laden lorries and livestock (cows, donkeys & camels) which would just walk across the road. All along the route we saw how many had been hit as they lay there rotting by the road side in some cases as many as ½ dozen in less than 100 metres. By 16.30 Wibke still sick asked to stop and so just after Sangarafa we came off the tar and drove a mile or so in land behind a hill and set up camp. Outside temp was 34C and windless, we were on 1 of Africa savanna grass lands, with yellow ankle high grass interspersed with the odd tree here and there. As soon as we had some water boiled a young shepherd approached us not able to speak a word French and the few phrases in our guide book weren’t sufficient to make conservation or even to ask if it was ok to camp at that place. After he had emptied half a bottle water we had given him by spitting most of the water on the ground squatting and chewing on a stick and the exchange of a few friendly looks he went off.
In the early night we woke up by the sound of people talking. Somebody at least two people were apparently on their way towards us. It was darkest night already so we could only see there torches. Night sight goggles would have come in handy. For a few moments we waited and then decided to leave the place as soon as possible. If they wanted to become friends with us, there had been plenty of time during daytime and with the stories of kidnapping in these areas in our minds we got the car ready to go within minutes and drove back to the main road and then found a suitable parking place a few kilometers further along.
 Camel herd at salt pans |
 House next to Mali embassy in Nouakchott |
Outside Sangrafa 11th December 2010
Waking up by the sound of the street in front of us to a sunny morning with bearable temperatures we had only a quick breakfast before a bull of one of the cattle herds around the area spotted us and decided to walk over and chase with load …us out of the place.
We spent the whole day driving, passing some villages and cities always welcomed at the entrance of the cities by rubbish dumps along the street. The cities were not more than bigger villages with alongside the main road one story shop buildings, all one room, with two doors and in each another business if it was for mechanic, food, pharmacy or electronic, mobile phones. Things you will never expect to buy in places like this. And on top on the street tiny stalls virtually only a cart with fresh slaughtered meat in the open sun. At not one city we felt like unmounts our vehicle.
In one village we stopped to take a picture of a nice house and Wibke was immediately surrounded by a huge group of boys of about 10 as it was a school that she wanted to photograph. After a few words they had spotted the Landrover and ran over for a cadeaux. The masses surrounded the landy that Wibke almost couldn’t get into the car. The biros we offered them were ripped out of our hands and we had to close the windows to stop them from climbing into the car. With it running a bit late we could see we wouldn’t make the Mali border and had decided to drive just out of the town of Ayoun Atrous and camp by the road side as we had done on many occasions. When we asked the police check point if the fork in the road was the way to Mali he advised us against wild camping and to stay in this town or the next as there were bandits operating at night, we took his advice and checked into Auberge Saada at the east end of Ayoun Al Atrous. This place could have great potential but basically was a rundown small complex with a big courtyard run by a friendly host who charged us 10.000 um for a room with water that only lasted whilst I had a shower so Wibke was left having to wash out of a bucket and the air con was so noisy that we decided to sleep in the tent on the Landrover so in other words not the cheapest of showers, but it was secure and we woke in the morning to birdsong
We spent the whole day driving, passing some villages and cities always welcomed at the entrance of the cities by rubbish dumps along the street. The cities were not more than bigger villages with alongside the main road one story shop buildings, all one room, with two doors and in each another business if it was for mechanic, food, pharmacy or electronic, mobile phones. Things you will never expect to buy in places like this. And on top on the street tiny stalls virtually only a cart with fresh slaughtered meat in the open sun. At not one city we felt like unmounts our vehicle.
In one village we stopped to take a picture of a nice house and Wibke was immediately surrounded by a huge group of boys of about 10 as it was a school that she wanted to photograph. After a few words they had spotted the Landrover and ran over for a cadeaux. The masses surrounded the landy that Wibke almost couldn’t get into the car. The biros we offered them were ripped out of our hands and we had to close the windows to stop them from climbing into the car. With it running a bit late we could see we wouldn’t make the Mali border and had decided to drive just out of the town of Ayoun Atrous and camp by the road side as we had done on many occasions. When we asked the police check point if the fork in the road was the way to Mali he advised us against wild camping and to stay in this town or the next as there were bandits operating at night, we took his advice and checked into Auberge Saada at the east end of Ayoun Al Atrous. This place could have great potential but basically was a rundown small complex with a big courtyard run by a friendly host who charged us 10.000 um for a room with water that only lasted whilst I had a shower so Wibke was left having to wash out of a bucket and the air con was so noisy that we decided to sleep in the tent on the Landrover so in other words not the cheapest of showers, but it was secure and we woke in the morning to birdsong
 Rubbish like this is a common sight in Mauretania |
 the road from Kiffa to Ayoun-Atrous was like this in many places |
Ayoun-Atrous 12th December 2010
Cave paintings at Terrini
Just a few km after we had left Ayoun Atrous, we noticed a sign on the road side to some painted caves and decided to stop and have a look. We asked various locals who spoke no French and just pointed towards these rock out crops. Well we spent the best part of 90 minutes looking for the special caves and climbed all over the rocks and when we had given up when we almost toppled over it on our way back. In the process we had seen a large owl and also some rodent looking creatures, marmots I think.
Back on the road and before long we were at the Mali border, all paper work went well , my 1st stamp in the carnet and we had to leave 10 euros with the Mauritanian official for “administration fee” and he hoped we had enjoyed our stay! With a carnet it was all plane sailing through the few police stops on the road to Bamako, compare with Mauritania the roads were in a much better condition and with much less traffic and what traffic there was were slow moving trucks loaded to the top. The country side now changed from the barren desert lands to greener tree covered land, we spotted the 1st of many toucans, and a whole variety of brightly coloured birds. We knew we wouldn’t make it to Bamako so at about 5 pm headed off the road to camp in the bush, away from any local village and there were many if only small groups of 6-8 houses. Wibke did here usual just after dark imagining all kinds of things hearing people coming, and cars and then someone loading a rifle but then after 30 mins or so she was calm again and we could settle down to an easy peaceful nights sleep. It was the 1st cold night and we shivered a bit in the tent but woke to another great day in Africa:
Back on the road and before long we were at the Mali border, all paper work went well , my 1st stamp in the carnet and we had to leave 10 euros with the Mauritanian official for “administration fee” and he hoped we had enjoyed our stay! With a carnet it was all plane sailing through the few police stops on the road to Bamako, compare with Mauritania the roads were in a much better condition and with much less traffic and what traffic there was were slow moving trucks loaded to the top. The country side now changed from the barren desert lands to greener tree covered land, we spotted the 1st of many toucans, and a whole variety of brightly coloured birds. We knew we wouldn’t make it to Bamako so at about 5 pm headed off the road to camp in the bush, away from any local village and there were many if only small groups of 6-8 houses. Wibke did here usual just after dark imagining all kinds of things hearing people coming, and cars and then someone loading a rifle but then after 30 mins or so she was calm again and we could settle down to an easy peaceful nights sleep. It was the 1st cold night and we shivered a bit in the tent but woke to another great day in Africa:
 Goats getting a roof top ride |
 street view in Sangarafa |
 rock formation close to Nouadhibou |
 Wibke on a sand dune |
